KISS stands for 'Keep It Simple, Stupid' – a maxim that has stood the test of time and means achieving a goal in the easiest and most economical way, without compromising effectiveness [1]. So, in that same vein, here are three dry fly patterns that I use regularly on rivers and still waters, that are about as easy and economical to dress as is possible. But do not let their simplicity fool you; these flies catch fish.
Pattern 1: The ‘Fly’
I am unsure if this is the right name for this one, but it is the only name I have seen associated with it – on some obscure webpage many years ago that has eluded me since. It was so simple I had to dress and fish it out of curiosity. Tied small and treated with a little floatant it works extremely well, maybe because it looks like a drowned or struggling morsel of food. The only downside I have found, is that it is difficult to see at any distance because the pattern sits ‘low and flat’ on the water (although for some, these are essential requisites of a good dry fly!) So it’s an excellent pattern to fish in tandem with another, larger and easier to see dry fly. Which is a good ploy too; fish more easily notice the large fly, but are more confident taking the smaller one!
Dressing:
Start the thread behind the eye and wind rearward to the hook point. You can go a little further if a larger fly is desired, but I have found no benefit in this. Spin the hanging bobbin anti-clockwise to flatten the thread and separate this into two strands. Place a small amount of teased out seal’s fur between the strands and gently spin the bobbin clockwise to trap it (only a few spins are needed – if you spin too much it creates a dense rope which is less prone to float). Dub the spun fur towards the eye stroking it backward after each wrap to maintain a level body with minimal trapped fibres. Form a small head and varnish. Tease out the fur with a piece of Velcro or dubbing needle to create a very buggy appearance. Note: I guess this will work in others colours too, but I've only tried black at the time of writing.
Pattern 2: The ‘IOBO’
I was shown the IOBO (‘It Oughta Be Outlawed) some years back by members of the Italian Casting Club. “Simplest and most effective dry fly there is”, they said. I cannot argue with this assertion other than personally not being a great fan of fishing with CDC, due to its tendency to waterlog when you catch a fish. (Just my personal experience, others will argue differently and advocate CDC floatants, which is fine!). When I use this fly I am constantly replacing the chewed wet version because fish absolutely love it! It sits like an emerger and can be seen very easily from a distance. Indeed, the black version shows up extremely well on those brighter days when the water's surface looks almost 'white'.
Dressing:
Hook: Light wire emerger size #14 or as small as you like
Thread: Black multi-strand
Only material: black or natural CDC feathers.
There are several ways to dress the IOBO, using either one large, or two smaller feathers.
The following method works well for me.
Start behind the eye and wrap a thread base to the hook barb (or where it would be if barbless). Leave a tag end of thread (e.g. in the material spring). Take two well-formed CDC feathers and place them back-to-back (i.e. concave sides facing each other).
Tie them in where your thread hangs, with the points of the feathers facing rearward (extend about two body lengths past the tying in point) to form a ‘brush’. Return thread to a point about 2mm behind the eye.
2. Wrap some of the loose CDC butt end barbs from the tying in point, around the shank to form a sparse body and tie in behind the eye (maintain the 2mm gap for the next stage). Bring the rearward loose tag end of thread up over the body two or three times as a rib.
Fold the ‘brush’ feathers forward along the top of the body and secure them in at the front. Then, hold the CDC upwards away from the eye, and whip finish underneath it so that the resulting 'head' pushes the shuttlecock upwards. Be sure to tie a few of these while you're at it, because they will soon get chewed up!
Pattern 3: ‘Trimmed Hackle Midge’
This is one of my go-to dry dressings that catches throughout the year. An increased number of hackle turns (circa five) make for much greater buoyancy and improved visibility of the fly at distance. A tail is optional because I have not found the pattern fishes better with or without a tail, although the fly does float better with a tail in some circumstances (such as on rippled or faster moving water).
Dressing:
Lay a thread base from the eye to the hook barb (leave a piece of thread extending backward in the material spring if desired, see below). Tie in four or five cock hackle barbs for a tail (optional). Form the body with touching thread wraps, up to just past the hook point. This 'short' body allows for the extra hackle wraps later. Bring forward the loose thread from rear to form a rib (if desired, see above). Using touching turns, tie in the genetic hackle and wind forward taking care to ensure that the hackle is brushed rearwards en-route, so as not to trap any barbs. Tie in the hackle about one eye width behind the eye. Form a small neat head and varnish.
Other options include trimmed hackles underneath the fly, and a superfine dubbing body if that's your thing. I tend to go for the trimmed hackles as per the photo, with the upper hackle barbs given a sparse treatment of floatant. This trimmed fly sits very enticingly indeed in the surface film. Which is why I fish it anyplace, anytime, with confidence.
Tight lines and threads,
Gary
Proprietor, MyFliesWetsAndDries.co.uk
[1] The acronym 'KISS' is attributed to Rear Admiral Stroop of the U.S. Navy, who in 1960 initiated a project of the same name to increase reliability and lessen the costs of military hardware systems.
Flies shown in this article were tied by yours truly, please cast me a message if you would like any of these patterns tied for yourself! (Shop 'Contact' button, or email fishmyflies@outlook.com)
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